Interior Painting: Garage Floors - 2

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Part 2 – Choose an Epoxy


This is part two of a three part series on painting garage floors. In the first part we discussed safety and preparation procedures. If your garage floor can pass the plastic square test you can move on to applying epoxy, if it did not, the garage floor is not suitable for epoxy. Choosing which one can prove to be a difficult and I will try to explain the differences between them so that you can make an educated choice.


Epoxy is a tough durable paint that resists grease oil and many other substances that would ruin ordinary paints. It can be found in a variety of colors as well as types and different manufacturers. Epoxy paints contain tough resins that come in two parts that you mix together, and can be broken down into 3 types: 100% solids, solvent based, and water based.

The 100% solid Paint Epoxy type is the almost pure epoxy and does not contain solvents that evaporate. These products are extremely expensive and difficult to apply on a garage floor because they harden very quickly. For this type it may best to leave this to the pros, unless you do your homework.

Solvent types are the next product type which contains 40 to 60 percent solids (epoxy) and are two part that need to be mixed before application. They penetrate the concrete well and have excellent bonding properties making them a top choice for Pros. Available in a wide array of colors and the top pick as recommended product for your project. Solvent-based epoxies may be difficult to find but visiting your local paint specialty store you should be able to locate a product (Sherwin Williams is highly recommended) Because of it’s volatile properties you need to use a respirator mask with an organic vapor/acid gas filter, available at local and giant hardware stores. Make sure the mask fits tightly to your face and that the garage is well ventilated. This is the product I recommend using for garage floors.

Water based epoxy paints are also two parts that need to be mixed before applying. And these also typically contain 40 to 60 percent solids. The upside to this type is there are no hazardous solvent fumes in this type of epoxy paint and are easily found at most local or giant hardware stores. The quality and performance is not as durable as the other types of epoxies, but a popular choice for the do-it-yourself folks. One such popular product is Rust -Oleum’s ,“EpoxyShield Garage Floor Coating”, which colors are limited.

Whether working with Epoxy Solvents or water base I recommend you apply two coats for a good build up that can withstand the wear and durability of the product. Make sure to read and follow the safety, application and clean up directions for any of the products you choose to use to achieve the best result.

Interior Painting: Garage Floors - 1

Go To Part 1 2 3

Part 1 – Safety and Preparation


This is the first of a three part series with the first part focusing on garage floors that have never been epoxied; the second part will be focusing on garage floors that already have an old epoxy finish. Many do-it-yourself folks shy away from finishing their own garage floor in fear it may not get done right since traditional painting guidelines do not apply. Normal paint is not used an epoxy paint must be used, this requires mixing since it is two part is mixing, and if not applyed exactly in the time frame stated on the label the floor will peel or bubble. However, this is not rocket science and I assure you anyone CAN complete this type of project confidently and professionally by following just a few simple but important concepts.

Materials Needed:

Bleach or driveway cleaner
Concrete etcher (if needed)
Concrete/mortar-repair compound or concrete patch
Stiff-bristle brushes
Pressure washer (optional)
Goggles or other eye protection
Respirator (with an organic vapor/acid gas filter)
Protective rubber gloves

We will begin with safety. Because the project will involve using products (epoxy paint - solvent based, etctching compound - muratic acid) that can produce harmful fumes (VOC) and have caustic properties, it is important to make sure you wear protective gloves, goggles and long pants or painter’s coveralls. Carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s directions on all of the product labels you are using. Also, make sure the garage is well ventilated. Adhering to all safety procedures is a very important component to completing the surface of any garage floor.

For the project we will be using an epoxy paint which will require the air and floor surfaces to be between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. This will enable the epoxy paint to adhere correctly. Before beginning sweep and clean the garage floor thoroughly using a stiff bristle brush and a 3 to 1 water-to-bleach mixture or commercial driveway cleaner. Once that has been completed you may use a pressure washer to rinse the garage floor, working from the back to the front. Allow 24 to 48 hours to dry.

You must perform a moisture test to make sure the floor is dry. This is done by taking a 2 foot by 2 foot plastic square and placing it on the garage floor taping all the edges down. Let this sit for 24 to 48 hours before taking it up. What you are looking for when you remove the square is any moisture that may appear on the side that was touching the garage floor.

With the confirmation that the floor is dry, now is the time to repair any cracks using a mortar/cement - repair compound, following the manufacturer’s directions. Next, you may need to etch the floor by applying a commercial concrete etcher. This step may be skipped if upon sprinkling a very tiny amount of water on the concrete and it absorbs right away. Should the water bead at the surface or take a while to absorb, you will need to etch the garage floor with commercial etching compound. this will enable the epoxy paint to absorb down into the concrete for solid adhearence and bonding. “Fizzing” when the etcher has been applied will indicate that it is working. The garage floor is now ready to have an epoxy paint applied to the surface.

By Jeremy Berger

Do it youself painting tips: choosing paint for a smooth finish

Oil based or latex paint? Matte, semi-gloss, or even high-gloss? What’s primer? All of the basic paint questions answered.

Contrary to popular belief, matte is not always better. A glossy finish causes the light to reflect therefore tricking the eye into seeing a smooth finish. Why? Your eye only focuses on the reflection of the light, which then blurs the imperfections of the wall. It also distracts from brush strokes and other painting imperfections. A matte finish doesn't reflect light and so you are seeing every little defect of the wall. However, it's best to go semi-gloss since high-gloss will highlight imperfections rather than distract from them.
Ultimately there are two kinds of paint, oil based (also known as solvent based) and latex paint (also known as water based). Yes, there are other paints on the market but these are the two options you will be sure to find at any paint store.
Oil based paint is made of oil and resins. This paint is thin and will glide onto surfaces easily however it is very difficult to clean up. This paint also requires the use of products such as paint thinner, turpentine, and primer. It is smelly and more toxic than latex. However, it is more durable than latex paint but it costs more and is overall more difficult to use.
Latex paint is thicker than oil based. This means if done right it is more likely to leave you with a smooth finish, sometimes in just one coat. It's also very easy to clean up since it just takes water and soap. Latex paint is supposedly less durable than oil based, but most latex paints claim to last 15-20 years or so. And best of all latex is healthier. The fumes are much less dangerous than with oil based. All of these reasons are why latex is the preferred choice of paint.
Primer is a great way to ensure a smooth finish. Primer is different than paint. It is meant to fill in any rough spots to create a smooth even surface on which to paint. It also creates a barrier so less paint is absorbed into the wall so the paint adheres to a primed wall better. Acrylic / Latex primers are used for interior purposes. This means that you will also need to use latex paint. You know that cliché "water and oil don't mix." This is an example of it. You can use water based paint (latex) on top of oil based primer but the reverse is guaranteed to not give you that smooth finish you want. So it's best to just stick with water based and water based. When shopping for primer be sure to check the label. Paint and primer are generally sold in the same section so the label will be your sure way to tell the difference.
If you have the money, the best smooth finish paints on the market are high end emulsions. They are made to evenly disperse the combination of molecules of the paint. Emulsions are ultimately fancy water based paint. However, a good latex primer with semi-gloss latex paint carefully rolled onto the walls will give you just about the same smooth finish for less money. Or you can go in between the price ranges. There are a lot of paints specifically labeled "for a smooth finish," but most people would agree there's usually only a small difference between the less and more expensive paints.
Last of all, remember that preparation of your walls and your painting technique also play a large role in getting a smooth finish. Spackle holes and dents in the wall and sand the rough patches when dry. Prime thoroughly. Then paint with a roller in almost vertical lines (like very narrow w's) moving quickly so these lines won't become visible. Clean up, let dry, and enjoy your beautiful smooth finish walls.

Written by Sarah Eve Nichols - © 2002 Pagewise

How To Bid Painting Jobs - 6 Vital Things To Consider

Estimating house painting jobs is something that grows on you over time. I can go into a house and go from room to room and tell you by eye exactly how much paint you will need to do the ceilings, walls and woodwork. I can even tell you just about how long it will take to paint each room in general. But estimating goes a lot deeper than just eyeballing a few simple rooms. So here are 6 points to consider when figuring your bids or estimates.
By Lee Cusano




Estimating house painting jobs is something that you get used to over time. I can go into a house and go from room to room and tell you by eye just how much paint you will need to do the ceilings, walls and woodwork. I can even tell you about how long it will take to paint each room.
I can even tell you just about how long it will take to paint each room in general. But estimating many times goes a lot deeper than just eyeballing a few simple rooms. So here are 6 points to help you when figuring your bids or estimates.
1.) Know Your Target Market
When getting prepared to do a painting estimate you first need to know your target market or markets. Are you going to be painting in the mid-class neighborhoods or are you aiming for the high-end expensive neighborhoods? Or are you going after commercial or industrial accounts?
Now you can you gauge how high you are going to set your bid rates. You can have have high-end rates for larger homes, or for commercial or industrial painting, and mid prices for the rest.
Personally, when it comes to painting for residential customers, I keep my rates the same. I do not care whether it’s high-end or middle class. If they cannot afford my painting services, I am out of there. Once you have painted at a premium price, it’s hard to go lower unless of course, you really need the money.
If you are estimating painting jobs for big business you can and should aim competitively high without worrying about much competition as you would in residential painting. Plus larger commercial customers have deep pockets. Also to consider, if you are tackling those types of accounts you will need extra painters anyways so you definitely need to aim high in your bidding to cover their wages and benefits.
2.) Fool-Proof System
You need an accurate estimating method that works perfectly every time without fail. Whether inside or outside. You can stand and stare at a project all day and try to guesstimate exactly how long it will take you to paint something or you can use an accurate method for bidding paint jobs and walk away smiling and not wondering if you might bite the bullet on that one.
3.) Allowances
You need to allow for fuel, travel time and even giving Uncle Sam his cut. If your going to be driving long miles you definitely want to account for fuel and travel time, even overnight expenses if you get that radical in your painting business. Again, if you have employees you will need to account for their wages and benefits in your bids also.
4.) Hidden Expenses
You need to be aware of hidden expenses or projects that add extra time and extra materials to a job. Things like hard to cover colors, excessive prep time, high-work, down time due to outside sources that are common in new construction, etc.
5.) Cost of Materials
You need to know how much paint and materials you will be using. (Note: A good estimating system will automatically include all your paints and materials.)
6.) Flexible Methods
Your estimating system should have several ways of figuring your bids. Just like a set of golf clubs, some times you need a different driver to make it on to the next green. Different jobs call for different painting estimating techniques.
For example: painting ceilings, walls and woodwork estimating can change if you have excessive woodwork like walk-in closets with tons of shelving. Or rooms with high walls.
The same goes for exterior work in residential painting. Are the surfaces smooth and clean or is there stucco or shingles that require extra time and materials? When you have an accurate system in place you can build up an estimate to meet the type of project you are bidding on.
Many times on larger estimates, I will cross-check my painting bid from different angles by using two different estimating techniques just to make sure I have it all together and did not leave anything out of the big picture.
Lee Cusano has owned and operated his own successful painting business for over 16 years now. Lee has also helped many others to start their own painting business with his Paint Like a Pro Estimating and Advertising CD-ROM. He also offers a free report titled "How To Gain a High Success Rate For Getting Painting Jobs". To get it visit http://www.painting-business.com/
Article republished from Copy & Paste Articles

Used Painting Books

Here is a list of the used painting books I have for sale clicking the link will take you to the book's description. They are all in like new condition! And cost like 20 to 40 dollars each new.

If you are interested in any of them please email me at jgross@htmail.com
They are 3 dollars each and will mail it to you for an additional $2.50
If you want more than 1 let me know and I will email you the shipping cost.

THE LIST

Here is The list of used painting books I have for sale clicking the link will take you to the book's description.

House Colors: Exterior Color by Style of Architecture
by Susan Hershman (Author)
Book Description


The Complete Illustrated Guide to Furniture and Cabinet Construction
by Andy Rae (Author)
Book Description


Idea Book
by Andrew Wormer (Author)
Book Description


301 Simple Things You Can Do to Sell Your Home Now and for More Money Than You Thought: How to Inexpensively Reorganize, Stage, and Prepare Your Home for Sale
by Teri B. Clark (Author)
Book Description


Your Home A Living Canvas: Create Stunning Faux Finishes & Murals with Paint
by Curtis L Heuser(Author)
Book Description


Painting Secrets
by Brian Santos (Author)
Book Description



Painting Your House Inside and Out: Tips and Techniques for Flawless Interiors and Exteriors
by Bonnie Rossier Krims (Editor), Judy Ostrow (Editor)
Book Description


House Painting: Inside and Out (Fine Homebuilding)
by Mark Dixon (Author)
Book Description


Painting Do-It-Yourself For Dummies
By Katharine Kaye McMillan (Author) Patricia Hart McMillan (Author)
Book Description